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The world of graphics and geometry is Cartier’s playground, and treating fans to more excitement are new iterations from its collections of iconic shapes.

Straight from the Cartier booth at Watches & Wonders, our Deputy Editor Allyson Klass also shares her thoughts and videos of the stunning new launches.

This year, the Tank Louis Cartier watch expresses a new radical elegance with the intensity of the monochrome dials: in the maison’s signature colour red, and anthracite grey, a shade borrowed from the Cartier watchmaking palette.

“The new Tank Louis Cartier comes in two Art-Deco inspired dials in grey or red. Look at that clever light play that creates so much depth.” 

“We think the Tank Chinoise will be a hit as well with its thicker brancards. We have a soft spot for the skeletonised model with the lacquered motif that’s inspired by Asian doors or gates.” 

In addition to this, it has been further refined: from the twelve classic hour marks, just four remain and the rail track is absent. 

“An homage to the Pasha de Cartier from the ‘80s, the new iteration comes in two sizes with a detachable grid that can be removed with a simple press-and-twist action.”

The extroverted Pasha de Cartier design hailing from the 80s reaffirms its status as a timepiece for one-of-a-kind individuals with several amazing interpretations. The first, the Pasha de Cartier Grille, boasts a removable grid over the dial that is inspired by a 1943 watertight piece with a protective grid.

The second is a series of three collectible pendants that can be clipped on to the crown cover of the Pasha. Inspired by the maison’s historic charms, the designs come in a double C, heart and eye motif.   

“The 41mm skeletonised Pasha de Cartier in black ADLC steel features luminescent numerals and square track.” 

The third set of technical Pashas – the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon – are developed and produced at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The Moonphase depicts the movement in the shape of a circle surrounded by a midnight-blue planisphere strewn with stars, and comes equipped with the Manufacture 1904 LU MC movement. The Skeleton features the beautiful 9524MC calibre and oversized Arabic numerals. Meanwhile, the magnificent Et enfin, Meanwhile, the maFlying Tourbillon fitted with Cartier Fine Watchmaking’s signature 9552 MC calibre stands out with a cage signed with a C. 

“This is the very first Cartier Santos-Dumont with a lacquer bezel. How sophisticated is this burgundy shade.”

As a tribute to the historical model, the Santos-Dumont collection adds three new versions to its repertoire.

These colour variations in burgundy and platinum, beige and gold or black and steel are coated with a thin layer of lacquer, then smoothed and polished by hand.

“The Santos de Cartier in steel is a handsome piece in this blue hue.” 

There is also the new Santos de Cartier, with a bezel in blue PVD and dials in white or blue, which is a welcome expression of modern masculinity. 

Classic as ever, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch are re-interpreted for the ladies in rose gold with a unique sunburst pattern and an alluring diamond arrangement on the dials.

“One of the key launches is the Coussin de Cartier with a cushion shaped case that flaunts a triangular setting to optimise the brilliance of the diamonds as well as inverted gems.” 

For something more glamorous, the made-for-evenings timepiece Coussin de Cartier will set hearts aflutter with the introduction of a triangular setting that allows the diamonds to be directly integrated into the case without using the traditional grain setting.

“The supple white gold mesh on this Coussin de Cartier piece took 22 hours alone to be 3D printed. The watch features over 1,000 gems and we fell in love with its tactile quality as you can see here.”

There are gold and diamond versions, as well as two-tone ones studded with inverted coloured stones. 

“The Panthere de Cartier is going to be a sure hit with the ladies with its mesmerising satin dial.”

Ladies enamoured with the stylish and absolutely versatile Panthère de Cartier would be thrilled with four new coloured satin dials – in shades of golden plum, midnight blue and black.

The diagonally crossed dials reverse the play of light and reflect the brilliance of the iridescent and subtle gradations. The models are available in rose gold, yellow gold and steel.  

What took our breath away are three high jewellery models under the Indomptables de Cartier collection. Each timepiece features a pair of exquisitely sculpted wild beasts – the head of the emblematic Panthère with that of another magnificent creature – on the bracelet in a face-off across a diamond-studded dial.

“If you can’t get enough of Cartier’s emblematic big cat, there’s the La Panthere.” 

“The La Panthere is now presented with a new clasp incorporated into the big cat’s jaw.”

There is the emerald-studded crocodile on yellow gold, a black spinel and diamond-set zebra on white gold, and a tiger on yellow gold embellished with diamonds, yellow sapphires, orange spessartites and black spinels.  

See more highlights of the collection below:

“Meet the enigmatic, minimalist Masse Mysterieuse that took 10 years to realise. It even has its own sound absorption system so you can’t hear the mechanism spin as the wearer moves.”

“The Cartier booth at the fair.”

More information here 

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