The Queen Consort and King Charles III (then the Duchess of Cornwall and Prince Charles) at Cheltenham
Tim Graham/Getty Images
And they’re off, down the M4, off at Junction 9 and up Evesham Road, round the bend and into the stadium… Welcome to the Festival, also known as Race Week, where your voice is left hoarse from shouting and, if luck is on your side, your wallet brimming with cash.
At any other time of year, Cheltenham is a relatively peaceful Regency town. It’s quiet, the architecture is pleasant, the grass is green and the trees lining the Promenade look almost Parisian at the right angle. But when the Festival happens, Cheltenham is a whole other beast.
From Tuesday 14 to Friday 17 March, Cheltenham will be packed – the parking bays, restaurants and hotels overflowing with racing enthusiasts and the streets running black with Guinness. Amid all that craziness it can be hard to know what on earth is going on. Here’s the lowdown.
Who goes?
The royal racing pack often grace Cheltenham’s turf, including Zara and Mike Tindall, the Queen Consort, Princess Eugenie and Princess Beatrice (perhaps with husband Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi in tow this year). Princess Anne regularly attends, the Princess of Wales has been sighted there, and her sister Pippa Middleton (now Matthews) has been known to put in an appearance.
What does everyone wear?
There isn’t an official dress code, but Cheltenham’s website recommends that visitors pay heed to the weather as well as fashion. Tweed is a strong choice – think tweed trousers, tweed jackets, tweed coats, tweed hats, tweed brogues. And plenty of check suits (men typically wear suits in the Club Enclosure and restaurants and hospitality areas). Jade Holland Cooper – of eponymous country-chic label, Holland Cooper – recently revealed her ultimate Cheltenham style tips, telling Tatler: ‘Don’t confuse it with Ascot,’ and stressing the necessity of a ‘statement coat’.
Hats are always a festive option for racing; Wednesday is Ladies Day and that means hats galore. But bear in mind that a delicate frothy confection might be whisked away by the wind – hair slides work wonders for pinning down unruly fascinators. And most of Cheltenham’s car parks are on grass, so avoid spindly heels if you don’t want to look like a first timer.
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Where should I eat?
There are a number of dining options on site; those who manage to shmooze their way into a private box will get to feast on the delights typically included in box packages, such as morning coffee and biscuits, a four-course lunch and a magnificent tea. There are also a plethora of restaurant options, although a sit-down meal doesn’t come cheap. But fear not; there are also plenty of food stands in the Club, Tattersalls and Best Mates Enclosures for those seeking something with a less hefty price tag – hog roast, anyone?
For those willing to venture further afield, Purslane, The Daffodil, Le Champignon Sauvage and Lumière nearby all serve great food, while John Gordons is worth a stop for tapas and cheese.
Where should I party?
No. 131 (owned by Jade Holland Cooper’s husband, Superdry founder Julian Dunkerton) is a luxurious hotel on Cheltenham’s Promenade. It’s home to a buzzing cocktail bar, Gin & Juice, which plays host to live DJ sessions at weekends. The hotel’s glamorous sushi restaurant, Yoku, is also a favourite for late night bites and drinks in the sumptuous Bar Tokyo cocktail bar.
And after all that, where should I sleep?
Queens Hotel and Ellenborough Park, a converted 15th-century estate, are all central and within walking distance of the main grounds. Then there’s the elegant Lygon Arms 30 minutes drive away, country house hotel Hatton Court, or the cosy Thatch Inn, all of which are solid options.
