Somewhat surprisingly, however, two vegetable courses are also among the most impressive of the evening: a raw shaved cauliflower salad, enlivened by velvety celeriac dressing and vivid drops of chilli and parsley oil; and a deceptively unassuming dashi broth, the humble turnips and sprouts perfumed with deep umami, then sprinkled with crispy shallots and sesame seeds.
Other standouts include the revelatory tuna kakuni – two tiny cubes of belly meat, slow braised in ginger soy until they quite literally melt in the mouth; and the orange zest-infused ikura donburi, in which the jewel-like salmon roe takes on bright citrus notes that sing against its heady saltiness.