Jonas BRESNAN
As the summer approaches and the clouds part, true to British custom, we flock to the nearest open spaces – or jetset to the tried and tested European hot spots. But the justifications for getting a glowing tan and a dose of vitamin D should be balanced with the risks of skin cancer and accelerated aging. According to dermatologists, the number one evidence-backed anti-aging trick is to ensure high strength SPF moisturiser as part of your morning ritual – even the UV(A) rays on cloudy days or through car windows can degrade our skin’s elastin and collagen.
I have spoken with some of the UK’s leading cosmetic dermatologists about simple anti-aging tips and how to navigate the often misleading information on this topic. Branded products tell us convincing stories such as ‘probiotic’, natural/organic/hypoallergenic, but do not always live up to the hype. Ingesting collagen and bone broth may only make marginal benefits, but micro-habits built into our daily skin health routines may show larger rewards.
- Apply high, broad spectrum SPF daily: Different products can filter out UVA and/or UVB, and act as either ‘chemical’ or ‘mineral’ filters. Creams also age, so you should replenish opened bottles every year, as most are sitting on our shelves from the previous summer. Daily moisturisers are now much easier to apply now and non-greasy. A good all-rounder, is Laroche-Posay or Heliocare 360 (SPF 50). If you are in direct sunlight for long periods, then reapplying every two hours is a good rule of thumb. Hats are also an easy way to provide cover (especially for men who may be thinning on top).
- Diet: a) increase your levels of lycopene in your diet. These can provide some level of skin protection. Green tea and tomatoes are particularly high in lycopene b). Avoid sugars which cause inflammation and can be damaging to the elastin/collagen in the skin. Omegas are also important for skin health.
- Regular exercise: Working out at least twice per week has been shown to improve IL 15, an anti-aging compound. This will also help reduce overall stress and cortisol levels which can accelerate aging.
- Anti-oxidants in serums: Include products with Vitamin C, E, B3 (Niacinimide), CoQ10 and Resveratrol in them as part of your skincare routine.
- Morning and evening facial care: Wash with a cleanser, use an antioxidant serum, and then SPF moisturising cream. In the evening, wash off the day’s pollution and make-up which can be damaging to the skin. Apply a Retinol or Retinoid cream over night which is restorative, helping to reduce fine lines and pigmentation and even out skin tone/texture. Some of the stronger preparations may require a prescription and dermatologist supervision.
- Exfoliation: Do this once or twice per week with physical (e.g. polished Jajoba beads) or chemical (salicylic acid or AHA/BHA) preparations. Find the balance, as over exfoliation could breach an important protective layer of your skin. You may not need to if you are using prescription creams (i.e. retinoids) or have particularly sensitive skin.
- Beauty sleep: Stay well rested, seven-eight hours per night of quality sleep will help skin to regenerate and mitigate the harmful effects of stress and fatigue.
- Cut back on the alcohol: Also ensure adequate hydration (most importantly, preventing dehydration).
- Avoid smoking: It is known to cause significant skin aging.
- Botox: For those interested in cosmetic procedures, Botox will help to reduce wrinkles over time, but cosmetic procedures can be a slippery slope, leading to body dysmorphia and further self-inspection. Feeling comfortable in your own skin is a psychological imperative. Any mental vulnerabilities could be exacerbated by focusing too much on your physical appearance.
For unbiased advice on skin products, the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association CTPA can offer helpful guidance.
Dr Tim Lebens is a private GP in Central London, with a subspecialty in health optimisation and latest advances in medicine. Visit his website at drlebens.com and follow him on Instagram @_modernmedicine
Dr Tim’s previous articles on other health topics can be found here
