Hedi Slimane has always chased two things in his work – youth culture and nostalgia – while simultaneously delivering his predictions for fashion each season. It’s a recognisable design language that has followed Slimane throughout his career, whether that was at Dior or Saint Laurent.
But it’s an aesthetic that seems to have found its natural home at Celine. And also in the rise and rise of the Y2K era of late nights, bright lights, indie sleaze and electro hedonism. Right down to the presence of Pete Doherty and a performance by his band The Libertines post show.
After his last show in L.A., Slimane took brought Celine back to its native Paris and one his personal haunts from his own youth, Le Palace. Also the location of his 50th birthday. From the appearance of the first model on the runway in the revamped space, it became clear that Slimane was taking us deeper into his own memories and experiences than ever before. A diary in the form of fashion.
Skin-tight leather pants and studded biker jackets worn by skinny youths who’s pale skin has only ever seen the sun at dawn as they make their way home to get to bed; black sunglasses shielded their eyes from the flashing lights as Cuban heeled boots stomped in time to the sound of the Suicides’ track ‘Girl’.
More leather, more studs, fringing and the occasional suit worn tight but paired with a leopard print shirt or skinny tie wrapped around the neck, ensuring that there would be no misunderstanding its purpose: Celine is about pleasure and play. Celine is never work.
Nautical influences were woven through the show: a peacoat and Breton stripe; a navy captain’s jacket worn with a check scarf.
It was rock chic meets reckless dandies who live without the fear of work the next morning.
Some critics might say that this aesthetic is becoming Slimane’s blind spot – which is true. It’s become as intwined with the image of Slimane as a designer as his fingerprint.
But the truth is: fashion is mean to be fun. Where the rest of the industry might be happy to proselytise some grand vision, Slimane’s edict at Celine is grounded in a much simpler message: clothes are meant to be fun. Have fun. Feel good. Wear what makes you happy.
