Behind the brand: Suzanne Santos, co-founder of Aesop, on how the brand retains its soul

Not many skincare brands can lay claim to a cult status the way Aesop can.

Started in 1987 by Dennis Paphitis, the Australian clean beauty brand has a large global following that adores its minimal design, and intelligent formulations and brand messaging. Its popularity is a frequent talking point; the brand defers from flashy marketing strategies or conventional advertising, preferring instead to draw its clientele in by word-of-mouth and unique stores that offer sensory experiences through environmentally-friendly designs and calming scents.

With the recent launch of the new Exalted Eye Serum, we speak to Suzanne Santos, Aesop’s Chief Customer Officer and right-hand woman of Paphitis, on the brand’s slow skincare ethos and how it retains its soul amid its constant expansion.

How and why was Aesop created?

Aesop was established with the aim of doing things differently. In 1987, very few companies were using botanical ingredients, however our founder Dennis Paphitis understood the role essential oils could play and the remarkable benefits they could deliver to the skin and hair. Dennis initially pioneered the use of essential oils in formulations to treat colour-damaged hair, and from this work grew a modest hair and body care range. By 1991, we were ready to start developing exceptional skin care products.

Talk us through the slow skincare philosophy.

Instead of quick fixes promising instant results, we extol the virtues of a more measured and meaningful approach, one that is focussed on the routine enjoyment of observing and tending to specific – often highly individual – skin care needs.

As with lifestyles and diets, we understand that skin health is an ongoing endeavour rather than a finished product, compelling our customers to embrace a process of continuous support and care. This attentiveness requires time and space, carving out a moment in the day for personal reverence, and shutting out the endless noise in order to connect with our skin – to listen to its minor fluctuations and responses as it passes through the seasons, weathering a variety of conditions.

Aesop first launched in a time where there weren’t alternative skincare brands. How did the brand gain such a following?

For over thirty years we have adhered to a fiercely independent approach to skin care, marked by an unwavering commitment to quality – aiming to create products of premium efficacy and sensory pleasure through solid science, delivered in uncomplicated packaging and with a touch of humour.

While Aesop has always sought to tread lightly on the environment—for example eschewing outer packaging of individual products, where not legally required – we are now on a more deliberate journey towards having a positive effect on the environment by becoming a fully regenerative company. As the business grows, our approach to design continues to evolve, along with our ethical and sustainable sourcing of materials, and our adoption of circular principles.

We found our voice by operating outside industry norms, and have maintained a commitment to customer service of the highest calibre, distinguished by honesty, warm hospitality and an extensive body of knowledge—hosting each customer much as we would a guest in our own homes. We anticipate long-term relationships with them, in which we will continue to meet their needs as their skin changes over time. It is our heartfelt belief that the experience of being a customer can and should be so much more than an emotionless exchange.

How do you retain the soul of Aesop amid so much expansion?

Our stores and counters are the embodiment of our philosophy and our approach to retail service.

While two Aesop spaces are never the same, when a customer enters any door around the world, they encounter the familiar: the products on our shelves, the knowledge, gracious hospitality and service extended by our consultants, and an aesthetic anchored not only to our sensibility but also to local culture, traditions and materials.

Our exacting standards demand that we remain wholly responsible for every aspect of the business—from the ideation and formulation of our products to the settings in which they are presented, and the ways in which their benefits are articulated and demonstrated. Were we to stray from these standards, our offer would inevitably be diminished.

Aesop always manages to stay ahead of its time, despite its consistent branding over the years. How does it retain this novelty despite a rapidly evolving industry?

We believe in an uncomplicated approach to skin care, focusing on the health of the skin. We advocate the daily use of our formulations as part of a healthy, balanced lifestyle that includes a nutritious diet, daily exercise and a moderate intake of red wine.

We ignore product trends and industry conventions by formulating products with a clearly identified purpose, such as our anti-oxidant-rich Parsley Seed range, developed in response to the needs of urban-dwellers whose skin is exposed to environmental stressors daily.

We emphasise the efficacy of twice-daily cleansing, toning and moisturising, along with regular deep-cleansing and facial treatments. We advocate generous application of our hydrating products, and encourage blending—for example, of exfoliating products and masques—for a complete, optimal regimen.

It is our conviction that the development of exceptional skin care products requires solid science and a harmonious marriage of laboratory-made and botanical ingredients. We formulate our products in-house and undertake rigorous scientific research to deliver what is inside the jar.

In what ways does Aesop appeal to a Singapore market?

Aesop was created for the curious-minded – and indeed our customers think about what they consume, and how. They value quality and sincerity. They are well-read, and worldly in their outlook. They encounter us most frequently via friends or family who have recommended our products, or via the sensory appeal of our spaces. These are the common threads, enduring throughout the company’s growth.

Our customers span all ages and genders. We have, from the outset, formulated our products to meet the needs of the skin across a global audience. The desire to look after and care for the skin, to groom and nurture it, is rather universal. The core needs of the skin – to be cleansed, hydrated, nourished and protected – are not exclusive to one gender. We believe that such care does not need to be complex and should always be minimally disruptive.

Whether they are new to Aesop or long-term devotees, our customers appreciate the efficacy of our formulations, the welcoming and beautiful spaces in which they are hosted, and the exceptional service they receive from our consultants.

Tell us more about the Exalted Eye Serum. How does it differ from other offerings in the market?

Exalted Eye Serum is a potent yet lightweight serum enriched with Vitamins B, C and E to deliver targeted and sustained hydration to the delicate skin surrounding the eyes.

It contains generous amounts of vitamins including Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C), Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Panthenol (Provitamin B5) and Tocopherol (Vitamin E), which work together to nourish, bolster and balance the skin around the eyes, supporting its optimum health and helping to even its appearance.

How does this eye serum in particular fit the needs of Singaporeans?

The Exalted Eye Serum cater to the needs and textural preferences of a wide range of skin types – dry, normal, combination and oily – as it confers sustained hydration from a lightweight yet substantive serum base.

It delivers a wider palette of skin-supportive vitamins (including Niacinamide and Tocopherol) alongside a new combination of humectant and emollient ingredients that together deliver more sustained hydrating benefits.

What are some of your personal Aesop favourites?

In the morning, in addition to gentle cleansing, I like to use the Lucent Facial Concentrate. It is light, barely there, but holds potent benefits. Almost all skin types will benefit greatly from the vitamins delivered by just one pipette of this exceptional serum; if your skin is normal, dry or dehydrated, it can function as a vitamin-rich preface to your chosen moisturiser, and significantly boost hydration. In hot and humid conditions, it offers excellent nourishment and hydration without encumbering the skin.

In the evening, I would unreservedly recommend Fabulous Face Oil, for the sense of wellbeing it confers in addition to its hydrating, decongesting and balancing properties. The lightweight texture and smooth, near-matte finish make it a pleasure to experience on the skin; and the aromatic impression of this product is like no other – essential oils of Ylang Ylang and Jasmine, particularly, evoke a sense of warm, languid evenings and gardens in full bloom. Only a few drops are needed to effect an elevated mood while delivering multiple benefits to the skin. It’s a delightful precursor to sound sleep.

What can we expect next?

Following International Women’s Day in March, Aesop continues to elevate women’s voices and stories—no matter the date or occasion. In this spirit, and to foster strength and solidarity among all women, Aesop presents its inaugural Women’s Library, arriving in two Singapore signature stores on 20—24 April 2022.

Over the course of five days, the shelves of Aesop VivoCity and Aesop Marina Bay Sands will be cleared of product and filled entirely with books by predominantly South East Asian authors who identify as women and allies. The selection – composed of recommendations from four collaborating publishing houses who champion local literary voices – is sprawling in genre and spirit: from emerging voices to seasoned authors, and short stories to novels and poetry. The featured writers include Pooja Nansi, Melissa De Silva, Amanda Chong, Stephanie Chan, and Annaliza Bakri.

Visit Aesop stores or the website to purchase the Exalted Eye Serum