By Global Admin
Having dined at 1771 just the other night, it is clear that this establishment will soon become a bastion of the Chelsea crowd if it hasn’t done so already.
With Mark Jarvis at the helm (it’s his third venture in London), he is well-known for setting up restaurants that are a subtle indication of ‘it’s the food that counts, although the ambiance of 1771 hits you straight in the face. To a certain extent it’s unassuming but delightfully chic and certainly a romantic spot for diner a Deux.
The dining room is shaded in green and tan, with marble-topped tables and, on a good day, floods of light come flowing through the windows, making it bright and airy but still with a sophisticated touch. Seating is banquette style with comfy cushions that you sink into. You can tell there is a designer behind this restaurant, and in this case, it’s Rose Uniacke, known for her use of luxurious fabrics. The artwork festooning the walls is very 20th Century and reminiscent of the pop art era, which also extends down into the trendy basement bar. The name 1771 comes from when the area was first founded, but the décor and artwork are more 1950’s and 60’s when it comes to Warhol and Lichtenstein adorning the walls.
The menu, however, is indicative of Jarvis’s talent and whilst open only for dinner, he has done what most of his compatriots have – the proverbial sharing plates or the tasting menu are your options. What does remain constant though is Jarvis’s daily bread, his famous cheese and onion malt loaf which was served with a beautifully poached turbot and mustard greens. A word though – if you love potatoes, you just melt into a side of potato souffle, pure magic.
There is an a la carte menu, featuring Koji-aged beef, both in fillet and sirloin versions and both soft, tender and perfectly charred. We thoroughly enjoyed our beef and the perfect wine flight was served throughout should you choose that rather than just one kind. Vegetables are imaginative, particularly the grilled Padron peppers. I would have loved to try the mushroom custard, but there is only so much you can devour! It seems custard has had a resurgence in recent times and certainly doesn’t resemble the ones we have with an apple crumble.
I don’t remember the last time berries actually tasted like berries here in the UK, but at last, my favourite soft fruit was deliciously recognizable as a blackberry. Served with a bergamot cheesecake, a perfect duo was served.
1771 will attract many in the months to come and it won’t just be the Chelsea set – I certainly will return.
A: 1771, 18-22 Holbein Place, Belgravia, SW1W8NL
T: 020 7881 0886
W: 1771 Restaurant
Written by Rafa Zurita for Luxuria Lifestyle London and International