Patek Philippe’s latest addition of six men’s timepieces to its stable of complications and iconic designs highlights the manufacture’s varied fields of excellence.
Be it grand or useful complications for everyday use, timepieces with classic and timeless designs, sporty-elegant watches, joaillerie watches for ladies or rare handcrafts creations, Patek Philippe belongs to a small group of haute horlogerie maisons that produce watches across all categories. The last independent family-owned Genevan watch manufacture has consistently evolved its current collections by creating all-new models or reinterpreting the aesthetics of existing variants. Here, we feature the manufacture’s six new men’s watches that were presented recently.
REF. 5373P-001: SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH WITH PERPETUAL CALENDAR FOR LEFT-HANDERS
Taking inspiration from a one-of-a-kind watch from 1927, Patek Philippe has created this new timepiece for left-handers – a first in the manufacture’s recent history. The Ref. 5373P-001 split-seconds monopusher chronograph with perpetual calendar is distinguished from its predecessor, the Ref. 5372, by its unusual inverted displays and operating elements.
This highly exclusive model, which is crafted in small series for not just lefties but connoisseurs of choice rarities, is powered by the calibre CHR 26-525 PS Q made by Patek Philippe. Launched in 2010, the 7.3mm manually wound movement is the thinnest split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar movement ever produced. Since 2017, it has been offered in a platinum model with a sunburst blue dial (Ref. 5372P- 001), as well as a rose-gilt dial with a vertical satin finish (Ref. 5372P-010).
The 38.3mm platinum case features a crown with an integrated chronograph monopusher at 9 o’clock and a split-seconds pusher at 8 o’clock. It boasts an elegant look with its polished concave bezel, slightly domed sapphire crystal, recessed and satin-finished flanks, as well as finely curved lugs and spring bars adorned with decorative cabochons.
A charcoal grey dial with a black-gradient rim, inverted counters/apertures and snailed black counters contrasts beautifully against the vertical satin-finish decoration. Another
Ref. 5204G-001 with an olive- green dial and matching calfskin leather strap Opposite: Ref. 5373P-001 is designed for left-handers striking aesthetic feature are the varnished chronograph hands that stand out in bright red. The small seconds counter is at 3 o’clock, while the moonphase is at 6 o’clock. Two round apertures for leap-year and day/night indications appear between 10 and 11 o’clock and between 1 and 2 o’clock respectively.
The dashing timepiece comes with an interchangeable sapphire crystal and solid casebacks. Like all Patek Philippe platinum editions, it features a brilliant-cut diamond set at 12 o’clock. The urban, sporty vibe extends to the black calfskin leather strap with embossed fabric pattern and contrasting red stitching. This new grand complication model replaces references 5372P-001 and 5372P-010.
REF. 5204G-001: SPLIT-SECONDS CHRONOGRAPH WITH PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Patek Philippe has reworked one of its great classics by dressing it in a 40mm hand-polished white gold case with an olive-green dial enhanced by a sunburst decoration and black-gradient rim.
The harmonious dial layout, highlighted by the contrast between olive green and white, ensures optimal legibility of the multiple displays: day and month in a double aperture at 12 o’clock; date hand and moonphase aperture at 6 o’clock; small seconds and instantaneous 30-minute counter in two finely snailed subdials at 9 and 3 o’clock. Two small round apertures showcase the leap-year cycle between 4 and 5 o’clock and the day/night indication between 7 and 8 o’clock.
The transparent sapphire caseback – interchangeable with a solid one – enables one to admire all the technical complexity and manual finishing of the CHR 29-535 PS Q calibre, which boasts seven patented innovations. Completing the timepiece is a shiny olive-green calfskin leather strap with contrasting beige stitching.
REF. 5935A-001: SELF-WINDING WORLD TIME FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH
Patek Philippe has reinterpreted this cult model in its first version in steel, a metal rarely seen in the manufacture’s collections. The vintage-inspired rose-gilt opaline dial features a “carbon” motif at its centre, which lends the watch a sporty, dynamic edge.
The World Time function displays the time in 24 time zones simultaneously with an exclusive patented mechanism that corrects all displays with a simple press of the pusher at 10 o’clock. The case is a tad larger at 41mm, giving more space to the city disc and optimising its legibility. The central chronograph hand is complemented by a finely snailed instantaneous 30-minute counter at 6 o’clock. Thanks to the vertical disc clutch ensuring minimal wear, the central chronograph hand can also be used to display the running seconds. The flyback function instantaneously enables a new timing operation while the chronograph is already running.
In addition to an exhibition caseback that reveals the construction and refined finishing of the self-winding CH 28-520 HU calibre, this watch is delivered with two calfskin straps – one in grained taupe and the other in beige with a nubuck finish.
REF. 5990/1A-011: NAUTILUS FLYBACK CHRONOGRAPH TRAVEL TIME
In 2006, the year of the Nautilus collection’s 30th anniversary, the Ref. 5980/1 Nautilus flyback chronograph was unveiled. This model was then joined by Ref. 5990/1 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph in a steel version in 2014, followed by a rose gold version in 2021.
Patek Philippe has since revisited the steel version by combining it with a new blue dial flaunting a radiant sunburst pattern and a black-gradient rim. The dial of this 40.5mm model is enhanced by the trademark horizontally embossed Nautilus motif, and comes adorned with applied hour markers, as well as rounded white gold baton-style hands.
The self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS calibre combines three useful and practical complications: a flyback chronograph, Travel Time function, and date indicated by a hand at 12 o’clock. The steel bracelet, featuring Patek Philippe’s patented foldover clasp secured by four independent catches, is equipped with a new lockable adjustment system that allows an increase of 2mm or 4mm in length.
REF. 5712/1R-001: NAUTILUS WITH A MOONPHASE
This eye-catching 40mm rose gold iteration features a sunburst brown dial with black- gradient rim that creates a warm harmony with the radiant precious metal. In addition to the hours and minutes, the ultra-thin self-winding 240 PS IRM C LU calibre displays small seconds at 4 o’clock, as well as three complications: a power-reserve indication between 10 and 11 o’clock; date indicated by a hand at 7 o’clock, with a moonphase display at its centre.
The original layout of the dial functions endows the watch with its characteristic appearance, while the readability of the dial with its instantly recognisable embossed Nautilus motif is enhanced by applied hour markers and rounded baton-type hour and minute hands, all in rose gold with white luminescent coating.
The 60m water-resistant, octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet made of three rows of links are enhanced by a refined contrast between hand-crafted polished and satin finishes. As with all new Patek Philippe watch bracelets, this model is also fitted with a new lockable adjustment system that allows an increase of 2mm or 4mm in length.
REF. 5811/1G-001: NAUTILUS DATE WITH SWEEPING SECONDS
One of the most sought-after watch models among collectors, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1 was first introduced in various steel versions, followed by a rose gold edition from 2015. However, after retiring the reference last year, Patek Philippe has launched a new chapter for the beloved, elegant sports watch with this reinterpretation in white gold combined with a sunburst blue dial and black-gradient rim.
The new, slightly larger 41mm model also bears applied hour markers and rounded baton-style hands in white gold with white luminescent coating. The date disc at 3 o’clock, highlighted by a white gold aperture frame, features the “40 years” font.
In addition to these specific features, the 120m water-resistant watch also makes a statement for several technical feats. In a nod to the original 1976 Nautilus model, the case with a two-part construction is combined with a new patent-pending pull-out piece lever system that enables the winding stem to be removed from the dial side without requiring access through the back. This device is designed to replace the previous “split stem” system.
The self-winding 26-330 S C calibre, seen through a transparent sapphire caseback, is equipped with a “stop seconds” device enabling the time to be set to the exact second. And to accompany this new watch, Patek Philippe has created matching white gold cufflinks adorned with a sunburst blue centre and black-gradient rim, as well as the trademark horizontally embossed Nautilus motif.
