If a message was to be read at Hermès Fall Winter 2023 menswear collection it’s that the arrival of the cooler weather is no reason not to enjoy the simple pleasures of a walk.
Artistic director for the men’s universe Véronique Nichanian has before delved into the world of the flanêur, the urban stroller who takes pleasure in wandering through the streets of cities. Most recently in the Spring 2023 collection where the clothing was jubilant, with a literal spring in their step.
For Hermès Fall Winter 2023, Nichanian delivers something with more of a bite to it. Or, if we read the press notes, a “tang” of something sweet and sharp.
Leather, a cornerstone material of the Hermès ateliers, remains the ingredient through which this extra flavour was delivered. Worked to an unbelievable suppleness, black calfskin leather trousers flowed like water as models strode past; coffee leather coats with printed tartan on the interior; or the prowling suaveness of a black leather jacket so light it layers like silk.
Softening the edges was knitwear – aqua cardigans and graphic sweaters – and sumptuously soft shearling coats and jackets. But close inspection, as always with Hermès, reveals ever more to appreciate. Such as the stitched leather detailing made to resemble DIY patch jobs. Or the hardware attachment that locked jackets lapels in the upright position that have been described as fireman’s jacket fastenings.
Adornment wasn’t solely left to the clothing either, with models decorated with jewellery – earrings and chains made from, silver, pink and white gold and leather necklaces with dice dangling at the ends. And bags! A veritable catalogue of Hermès bags became the plus ones of the show, from multi-pocket Haut à courroies bags Barénia Faubourg calfskin or matte crocodile to Kelly dépêche bags in Togo or Epsom calfskin.
Movement and the creation of clothing or accessories that facilitates and provides the freedom to do this is a philosophy that lay at the heart of Hermès designs. But rather just deliver a collection that only sees walking as a form of pleasure, this was walking with purpose. It was daywear that has all the sensuality more often associated with evening wear. Or more simply put, it was a collection designed to explore into the city’s pleasures regardless of the time.
