Behind a village gate lies an enclosed garden, roses climbing its walls; and beyond that, a château glowing in pale tuffeau stone, straight out of Tintin. This pre-revolutionary palace – an hour or so from Paris, near Le Mans, and the perfect pit stop for those heading south-west – was built for the baronial Pineau de Viennay family. Unobtrusive staff in chic taupe trousers float along stone flags and parquet, past huge mirrors and antlers – as stately as the dining room with its portraits of Napoleon III and pink painted panelling. The bedrooms (though no two are the same) share a marble, chandelier and Boulle-style aesthetic with Hermès silk cushions, extremely comfortable mattresses and linen from Rivolta Carmignani – not to mention Buly 1803 bathroom products. Views out to the gardens are almost implausibly lovely, with the 80 acres laid out and tended like a mini Versailles. There are so many walkways, levels, vistas and statues (some presents from Louis XV to the baron) that guests are given a map to navigate on foot or electric bike. Don’t miss the double staircase leading down to a circular pool in the centre of the walled garden – the Jardin Exotique – a suntrap with borders of roses and dahlias, greenhouses and an orangery. Further afield, there is a woodland of white oak and statues – of Pan, Ceres and Proserpine – appear everywhere in silent greeting.
LOCATION: Loire Valley, France
BOOK IT: Doubles from £400, including breakfast
WEBSITE: chateaugrandluce.com
