Silvia Venturini Fendi has given us an invaluable insight into the Italian mindset – the importance of leisure in our pursuit of happiness. The topic – and what this freedom might look like – underpinned the direction for the latest menswear collection for Spring Summer 2023. A show that connected the space between the sky and the sea – two of the most popular methods of travel – Fendi delivered a taste of what it might be like to live unfettered by obligations.
Speaking about the collection, Sig.ra Fendi has described the direction as being about “a balance of decoration and simplicity,” she says, “An ageless sense of freedom to play, as we rediscover the luxury of free time.” Perhaps the iconic film A Roman Holiday was playing in the back of her mind while developing the concept behind the clothing. Set in her native city of Rome and starring the timeless Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn, the film is a 90 minute adventure of escapism – escaping the demands of duty, escaping the demands of deadlines. It was a message to simply live in the moment and all its pleasures. And thus, Fendi Men’s Spring Summer 2023…
To the garments itself – what could be more pleasurable than the kind of clothing that creates a mood for adventure? After causing a minor shockwave through the industry with their now much-replicated crop-topped suiting a year ago, the midriff has been swapped out for a bohemian rhapsody. Cowhide motifs and denim brought to mind west coast road trips while the more structured coats and tailoring perfect for the more urban adventurer. Pants – made from ultralight wool, or calfskin or panelled denim, pooled around the feet, creating a languid ease of fit. Shirts were equally loose-fitting, made from ripstop, poplin or cotton.
Of particular importance, and a personal favourite of Sig.Ra Fendi, was a greige, feather-light coat in technical garberdine. Streamlined down to a razor sharp minimalism with bonded seamless pockets, it had the clarity of a diamond in comparison to the overtly more relaxed state of affairs of its preceding and following looks. Even the most freedom-loving among us can still take a tailored approach to their adventures.
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