cup vegetable oil
garlic cloves, smashed, coarsely chopped
½” piece peeled ginger, thinly sliced
large onion, thinly sliced
Freshly ground black pepper (optional)
bunch collard greens, ribs and stems removed, leaves chopped
bunch rainbow Swiss chard, trimmed, ribs and stems removed and chopped, leaves torn
bunch Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves chopped
13.5-oz. can unsweetened coconut milk
red Thai chiles, thinly sliced, plus more for serving if desired
Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar
Heat oil in a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Add garlic and ginger; cook, stirring, until golden, about 1 minute. Add onion, season with seasoning salt (or kosher salt and pepper), and cook, stirring often, until onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add shrimp paste; cook, stirring, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes.
Add collard greens and Swiss chard ribs and stems to pot and cook, stirring, until wilted and beginning to soften, about 3 minutes. Add kale and Swiss chard leaves; cook, stirring, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Continue to cook until all greens are tender, about 4 minutes more. Add coconut milk and 5–8 chiles, depending on how spicy your chiles are and your heat preference. Increase heat to high; bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until laing is thickened and flavors have come together, 8–10 minutes. Stir in vinegar; season with seasoning salt (or kosher salt and pepper) if needed.
Serve laing topped with more sliced chiles if desired.