Back in 2019, Jake Gyllenhaal showed up to a red-carpet premiere wearing a thin, tasteful gold chain. It complemented his dark suit nicely, but Twitter still had an absolute meltdown—prompting a Vogue.com story titled “Leave Jake Gyllenhaal’s Necklace Alone.” We’ve come a long way in the four years since. Harry Styles rocks pearls on the regular, and a legion of Gen Z fellas has boldly followed in his footsteps. Lil Nas X is rarely seen without a florid earring dangling from his lobe. And now more than ever, the jewelry market is flush with daring, spectacular pieces for men—with daring, spectacular price tags to match—and style-minded, deep-pocketed guys are snapping ’em up with wild abandon.
Each of the delicate 18-karat- gold baubles on these Dolce & Gabbana necklaces are painstakingly woven by hand using fine granulated wires.
To Olivier Reza, the second-generation head of the luxury jewelry house Reza, this recent surge in male adornment simply marks a return to the natural—historically speaking—order of things. Before wardrobes took a more staid and serious turn in the 20th century, he says, for thousands of years “men would wear ornaments and invest in making the things that surround them unique and beautiful, whether it be their hair, clothing, horse, swords, or carriage. I see this more embellished way of living slowly returning.”
David Yurman’s blocky, diamond- riddled necklaces and bracelets are hefty statement pieces. Watch, by Rolex.
These hard-core wallet chains by Chrome Hearts are fashioned from either sterling silver or 22-karat gold, and are lined with pavé diamonds.
That return is partly thanks to a wave of both established jewelers and upstart designers who are breathing new life into the upper echelons of ice: ultrafine jewelry, where precious metals and stones are deployed with a more artisanal bent, and high jewelry, akin to jewelry’s haute couture, in which the rarest of gems are placed in the most showstopping of settings, resulting in one-of-a-kind heirlooms often worth millions. There’s the old guard, of course—your Tiffany and De Beers—alongside big names like hip-hop favorite Jacob & Co and elusive biker gods Chrome Hearts. There are the designer fashion labels, like Louis Vuitton and Prada, now bringing gusto and creativity to the space. And then there are the electric up-and-comers, like Frank Ocean’s Homer and diamond-grill specialist Alligator Jesus, offering fresh perspectives to an ancient art form. It all adds up to an audacious galaxy of geometric neckwear, blinding tennis bracelets, and rock-happy rings that a new generation of men are, at long last, embracing wholeheartedly.
You could put yourself through several rounds of painful, expensive dental procedures to get your teeth movie-star gleaming. Or you could spend that money on one of Alligator Jesus’s outrageous grills—encrusted with diamonds, opals, and mother-of-pearl inlays—instead.
In other words: The next time you see Jake Gyllenhaal, don’t be surprised if the chain has been upgraded to a fireworks display of rubies and sapphires strung around his neck.
Make room next to that simple gold signet on your pinkie for rings that are bigger, more brazen, and downright gnarly. From left: Reza, De Beers, Gucci, David Webb, Bulgari, Chopard, Chrome Hearts.
Prada’s first-ever fine jewelry line, fashioned entirely from recycled gold, is full of sharp, punk-rock-ish edges that recall the brand’s legendary triangle logo.
Yang-Yi Goh is GQ’s Style Editor.
A version of this story originally appeared in the March 2023 issue of GQ with the title “Secure the Jewels”.
PRODUCTION CREDITS:
Photographs by Bobby Doherty
Prop styling by Noemi Bonazzi
Styled by Brandon Tan
Grooming by @valissayoe using Kevin Murphy Hair Care
Prada Photograph: Nails by Iridé Baez
All others: Manicure by Nori using Dior
