DAVID LOFTUS
4/32
Step into Hoppers’ cosy, bustling restaurant on Frith Street and you know immediately that you’re in for a good meal, thanks to the convivial atmosphere and tables of eager diners diving in with giddy abandon. Inspired by Sri Lanka’s village toddy shops, it’s the perfect dose of gastronomic escapism for a dreary London day. Expect a fresh, uplifting taste of Sri Lankan cuisine: a riot of colours, flavours and textures, made for ordering in abundance and sharing with friends. The ‘Taste of Hoppers’ set menus (available in omnivorous and vegetarian versions) are a good choice for first timers or if you’re feeling indecisive. Otherwise, kickstart your tastebuds with the devilled paneer and hot butter squid: the former pleasingly chewy; the latter crisp and juicy, each gloriously coated in sticky, tangy sauces. For the main event, the fragrant Swimmer crab kari is a delight – but make sure to have plenty of napkins on hand; delicate table manners will get you nowhere here. It’s perhaps not quite the thing for a first date (or maybe it’s exactly the thing for a first date; someone’s willingness to put aside their vanity and get stuck in would surely be proof of good character). The Tamil aubergine kari is another winner, with meltingly tender aubergine chunks in a thick, richly spiced sauce. Ordering one of the restaurant’s eponymous hoppers (a fermented rice and coconut milk pancake) is a non negotiable. With a distinctive shape (domed on account of the pan in which they’re cooked) and unique texture (somehow crisp, spongy and chewy at once), it’s the ideal vehicle for scooping up unctuous karis and dals. The chilli cheese dosa, meanwhile, is the stuff of comfort food dreams, with gooey melted cheese and pops of vivid green chilli. And make sure to order a chutney and sambol or two – not that any of the dishes are in need of more flavour, but having extra accoutrements for dipping and sprinkling only adds to the pleasure of the communal dining experience. Service, meanwhile, is quick and efficient, with an air of unobtrusive friendliness that befits the homely space and unstuffy food.
49 Frith St, London W1D 4SG
