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Take a mixture of shadow boxing, dance and a whiff of sex all played out by Robert Pattinson and you get one helluva campaign all in the name of the new Dior Homme Sport. A flanker to their groundbreaking 2005 scent, Dior Homme Sport has developed its own cult following independent of the original one. This latest addition continues on the story…

Current Batman, former vampire and indie film favourite, Pattinson has been the face of the Dior Homme pillar since 2012, taking over from Irish model Jamie Dornan. In some ways, his campaigns for Dior have been a progression of this own maturity and the latest sees the British actor come into his own. The usual fragrance tricks are there – longing looks and an ingénue – but Pattinson’s uninhibited energy is the real star.

But a campaign is one thing. The true test is what it smells like.

Dior Homme Sport.

In comparison to the cool iris that underpinned the original Dior Homme concept, the Sport series was vibrant and fresh with notes of citrus, ginger and given a warm glow in the dry down courtesy of vetiver and rosemary. This is continued in the latest release – although the ginger has been swapped out for pink pepper and frankincense and aldehydes have been added to provide a salubrious, almost fizzy, lift.

But where it diverges is a dose of what have been officially termed as “woody notes” and that ever-present frankincense. Frankincense can be a chameleon accord, and nose François Demachy is playing all of its notes here: resinous and rich in the dry down but a zingy green freshness at the beginning. Where traditional woods allow for a warming in the timeline of a fragrance, frankincense keeps it lifted in the upper echelons of that bright opening for a lot longer.

There’s no need to reinvent the wheel when it comes to the genre of “sport” fragrance – make it fresh, make it invigorating, make it masculine – but in the right hands, and done well, it can add to the conversation in a way a cologne or usual eau de toilette can’t.

Demachy’s skill as a perfumer has been given full reign at Dior – his work on their Collection Privee has cemented the Dior olfactory aesthetic as both artistic and commercial hit – and the new Dior Homme Sport is what happens when a brand finds the right artist to bring their ideation to life.

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