For the less puritanical among us, however, the Sunday Pancakes are a must order – a dish so famous it’s even been trademarked. The stuff of New York legend, these pancakes have such a cult following that the Williamsburg restaurant has been known to make April Fools jokes that they’re leaving the menu, much to the hysteria, then relief, of Sunday’s loyal devotees. Within just weeks of the London outpost launching its brunch offering, UK-based Instagram blogs were inundated with pictures of the dish. And with good reason: it’s the ultimate food porn fodder, sprawling not just in diameter, but in depth (a single pancake is more akin to a Victoria sponge in width), glistening with its signature hazelnut maple praline and brown butter glaze, which pools luxuriantly around the edge of the plate.
While it’s certainly a feast for the eyes, this isn’t a case of style over substance. Despite its heft, the crumb of the pancake is surprisingly springy and tender, while the sauce is, quite simply, heavenly. If Cleopatra was around today, she’d probably opt to bathe in it instead of milk, and you may well want to, too. Poured generously over the mound of pancakes (which can be ordered as a single, double, or triple stack – although even one is quite the monster), it’s a gloriously glossy, unctuous goo, with complexity and depth from the brown butter and hazelnuts to temper the hit of sticky sweetness. Think of it as like a grown-up Nutella, but immeasurably better.
As for the savoury side of the menu, the shakshuka is the perfect warming comfort food for a dreary autumn day. Well executed and fragrant with spices, it’s served with a generous wedge of focaccia, while the addition of feta adds some welcome briny sharpness to the velvety sauce. The deceptively unassuming Sunday Salad, meanwhile, is surprisingly complex, with careful layers of flavour from raw and roasted vegetables, and heartiness from chickpeas and sourdough croutons, all topped off with feta and a jammy-yolked egg. The crowning glory is the herby green goddess dressing, with its perfect balance of bright acidity and creamy richness.
The brunch cocktail menu is extensive and imaginative, spanning classics like the Sunday Bloody, through to the whimsically named Honeybear on Holiday. A zesty concoction of Fiji rum, Amontillado sherry, apricot, pineapple, lime, cumin, and honey, it’s already an Instagram favourite, thanks to its kitschy-cute bear-shaped bottle.
Service is friendly and efficient, with the team presiding over a busy brunch service without betraying any sense of fluster or impatience. While the mood in the morning is cordial and energetic, one can imagine the space – furnished with a long, elegant bar – lending itself equally well to the dimmed lights and hushed atmosphere of the evening. And after all, there’s a whole separate dinner menu to be tried.
For more information, visit sundayinbk.co.uk