More than just the name of a picturesque Italian seaside town, Portofino has become a byword for laidback luxury and the kind of classical yet ultra-elegant style that only gets better with time. The small, secluded fishing village rose to fame in the 1950s when the fashionable elite fell in love with its pastel-toned houses, dazzling coastline and vibrant natural diversity – not to mention the amazing Ligurian cuisine.
Frank Sinatra famously frequented Portofino, as did the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, along with countless artists, writers, painters and other stars of the time. Likewise, celebrities today, such as Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow, Mariah Carey and Rihanna, are indelibly drawn to the quaint locale for the very same reason that IWC was in the ’80s, when it sought to create a contemporary yet classic gold timepiece with eternal appeal.
The IWC Portofino is steeped in watchmaking history. Redolent of the timeless, simple gold round watches made and popularised by the manufacture between the ’50s and ’60s, it has a remarkable origin story as well.
The plan was to turn a Lépine moonphase pocket watch into a wristwatch. And according to the manufacture’s historical account, it’s said that IWC’s head watchmaker Kurt Klaus and former design head Hanno Burtscher came up with this concept over a glass of wine.
Burtscher sketched out a pocket watch case with horns onto a napkin and the first IWC Portofino was born. Known today as Ref. 5251, that timepiece became the cornerstone of the inaugural collection, as well as one of the most collectible IWC Portofino models, thanks to its distinctive moonphase display powered by the pocket watch Calibre 9521 in a 46mm case.
Through the years, IWC expanded the collection with iterations of this iconic timepiece, including a chronograph, manual-winding three-hand watch, self-winding models in various sizes, an eight-day power reserve model, and most recently, elegant feminine variations in 34mm and 37mm adorned with refined complications. Irrespective of size, material or function, the watches are unified by a sleek and classic aesthetic anchored by slim baton hour markers punctuated by Roman numerals, as well as polished feuille hands.
Designed for women who appreciate more than a little technical finesse in their timepieces, the latest IWC Portofino 37mm series marries horological excellence with modern femininity. Shown through a sapphire crystal caseback is the calibre 32111, a movement with a five-day power reserve conceptualised to be as rugged and reliable as one would expect of a 21st-century luxury mechanical timepiece. And for the first time, the movements also feature silicon components, specifically the escape wheel and pallet lever – a significant upgrade from the former Sellita-based calibre 35000 movement family.
Meanwhile, signature IWC technical characteristics, such as the automatic pawl winding system remain in these calibres, with the added bonus of newly developed lubricants that extend the service life of the components.
Equipped with the calibre 32800, the Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 continues the collection’s enduring dalliance with the poetic lunar display. A special reduction wheel train in the moonphase mechanism improves its reading accuracy to just a day’s deviation every 122 years. With a solid gold moon depicted against a blue night sky, the function is geared to the time display, so all adjustments can be conveniently made via the crown.
In diamond-set versions of this watch, as well as the Portofino Automatic 37, IWC debuts a new case shape with increased bezel dimensions optimised to accommodate larger stones of up to 1.7mm. The manufacture has also improved on the setting, allowing the diamonds to reflect more light and radiate greater brilliance. Models with silver-plated dials boast a new sunray décor with a softer, more refined finish.
Consistent with IWC’s campaign towards transparency and sustainability, the watches are paired with fully traceable Swiss calfskin leather, a first in the luxury watch industry. Each one is tagged to a unique code, which can be looked up in the official IWC app. These straps have the same natural soft sheen you would expect of any high-quality leather. Although, if you prefer another style option, swap it out for an elegant five-link quick-change bracelet whenever the mood strikes – or on your next summer holiday in the glamorous Italian Riviera.
(Main and featured image: Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 in red gold with diamond-set bezel and hour markers on a silver-plated dial, and calfskin strap with quick-change system)
This story first appeared in the Dec 2022 issue of Prestige Singapore.