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A monsoon Monday night. I am meeting my good chum Joe Warwick for dinner and gamely he agrees to come to Clipstone restaurant, quite a long way from where he lives, but just round the corner from me. Of course, living so close I am late. He messages, ‘I am Gene Kelly, but minus the singing and the dancing…’ He does have an umbrella. Our waiter is Gene Kelly had Gene Kelly come from Slovenia. I like and admire all of Will Lander and Dan Morgenthau’s restaurants – with a special place in my heart for Quality Chop House. Lockdown and its  repercussions seem to have revved up chef Stuart Andrew’s Clipstone menus which are even more engagingly limber and malleable. Still on the straight and narrow, I choose purple sprouting broccoli, brassicas, cashew nuts and smoked Hollandaise whilst Joe, who by now is laughing at clouds with a smile on his face, goes for Yorkshire partridge, delica pumpkin, ventrèche, smoked almonds and herbs. It is still pouring. Sober as a judge, I drive him to the bus stop. 


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