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Tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite, and topaz adorn the limited edition.

The story of the collaboration between Bulgari and MB&F is first and foremost that of an encounter between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Maximillian Büsser.

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Stigliani, the product creation executive director of Bulgari, and Büsser, the founder and creative director of MB&F, were initially motivated by mutual professional respect, but this evolved into a strong friendship.

From left: Maximillian Büsser and Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani

The outcome of that collaboration, FlyingT Allegra, a creation that merges skill, mindset, and creative approaches.

Founded in 2005, MB&F is the world’s first-ever horological concept laboratory. Büsser founded it after 5 years managing prestigious watch brands at Harry Winston.

MB&F is an artistic and micro-engineering laboratory dedicated to designing and crafting small series of radical concept watches by bringing together talented horological professionals that Büsser both respects and enjoys working with.

Radical approach

While both Bulgari and MB&F are leaders in their field, the two follow a similarly convention breaking approach.  

The Rome-based company is known for its love of cabochon-cut colored gems in its jewelry watch creations. The Mediterranean warmth and exuberance it expresses diametrically contrasts the current taste for classicism.

As mentioned, MB&F is all about exploring previously uncharted conceptual territory within a watch industry environment characterized by stubbornness.

MB&F works on volumes and complexity, while Bulgari creates two-dimensional models with a radically graphic aesthetic. The choice to revisit MB&F’s Legacy Machine FlyingT thus makes sense as the FlyingT Allegra incorporates both sensibilities.

Radical in terms of its architecture and construction while remaining opulent in ornamentation, this creation was intended as a tribute to femininity.

In its name FlyingT, the T stands for the initial of Max Büsser’s wife Tiffany as well as for flying Tourbillon. In an ultimate refined touch embodying this sophisticated approach, the movement is designed in such a way that only its owner can read the time.

Unconventional elements

While this may seem simple, the reality is quite different. The movement is vertically built along a central axis orchestrating the overall architecture of the entirely visible mechanism. In this respect, the watch deliberately goes against tradition, since everything that is usually hidden is highlighted here in a three-dimensional construction.

The upper end of the axis carries the diamond-set flying tourbillon. Its balance, a vibrant technical organ against which the hours and minutes dial is set at a 50-degree angle, is precisely defined. This is so the owner of the FlyingT Allegra is the only one who can read the time.

The case-back reveals the sun-shaped oscillating weight: its gold sandblasted rays rotate on the ruthenium disc positioned above a platinum counterweight.

Between the regulating organ and the rotor, the barrel ensures an extremely generous 100-hour power reserve made possible by the reduction in the number of gears. A sapphire crystal dome tops this three-dimensional assembly, beneath which one can admire the movement.

This unusual construction could not have been more appropriate for Bulgari. The volumes of the watch—featuring a case entirely redesigned by Bulgari to give it a futuristic and opulent profile—are matched by those of the colored stones.

These gems serve to counterbalance the cold precision and micromechanical complexity of this model by instilling the Roman jeweller’s warm and exuberant signature touch.

For each of the 20 timepieces composing the two pink or white limited editions, jewelers have carefully selected tourmaline, tsavorite, diamonds, rubellite, amethyst, tanzanite and topaz, in an exceptional composition forming a full circle around the movement. The dial entirely paved with snow-set diamonds provides a dazzling backdrop.

Colorful creation

In contrast to conventional high jewelry codes, Bulgari has always favored the use of colored stones rather than just diamonds. Colored gems enable the maison to create authentic compositions through a gradual process aimed at achieving harmony and chromatic power adapted to the design of the model.

Cut is very important, and Bulgari favors the cabochon which ensures extreme clarity of the stone while emphasising the opulence of the creation. The cabochon cut perfectly matches the FlyingT Allegra’s round and voluminous case.

This exceptional partnership highlights two powerful visions of the world that merge within an integrated and harmonious creation.

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