Anrealage's collection changes colours under UV light at Paris Fashion Week Fall 2023

On 28 February 2023, Anrealage unveiled something truly unique at the Autumn-Winter Paris Fashion Week, 2023-2024. On the runway were models clad in clothes by the Japanese label, while a bar of UV rays revealed the actual colours of the garments.

Held at the Théâtre de la Madeleine, the Anrealage show seemed to bring together two worlds — one that is apparent and the other that lies beneath the surface. As pairs of models took to the runway, audiences were shown similar-looking garments, which they were almost thrown into believing were identical clothes from the label.

But little did they know that Tokyo-based designer Kunihiko Morinaga, the owner of the fashion house, created silhouettes that were seemingly plain and white until a light beam scanned the models wearing them, revealing colours and patterns.

More details from the Anrealage Paris Fashion Week show

About the collection

Morinaga is known to have mastered the fusion of art and technology in his designs with the help of light-dependent, colour-changing photochromic properties nearly a decade ago. Since then, he has used it in many collections, including a Fendi collaboration in 2021.

The Autumn-Winter Paris Fashion Week, 2023-2024, runway also stood witness to yet another rerun of this concept from Anrealage. In fact, this is the first time Morinaga used it in faux fur, velvet, lace, knits, jacquards and satins. Additionally, this is also the first time that Morinaga used the technology to reveal shades such as yellow, red and purple.

The collection included voluminous ready-to-wear garments like dresses, robes, jackets, skirts, trousers and coats, which showed geometric patterns, polka dots, cheques, stripes and the label’s monogram when scanned by the UV light.

Philosophy behind the technology used in the collection

The models entered to the swelling beats of Maurice Ravel’s “Boléro” to face the light. After the colours on one side were revealed, the models turned around for the light beam to show the other side.

For this collection, Morinaga derives heavy inspiration from the German term for ‘environment’ — ‘Umiwelt’ — formulated by German philosopher and biologist Jakob Johann Baron von Uexküll. It refers to the unique way every organism perceives its surroundings and coexists.

It further signifies that these things in the environment may seem different when seen in a different ‘light’.

(Main and feature image credit: Kristy Sparow / Contributor/ Getty Images)

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